China: The minarets of the Friday Mosque (Jama Masjid) at dusk, Karghilik, Xinjiang Province (photo)

In earlier times, Karghilik (Yecheng), a small oasis town was a starting point for trade caravans leaving the main Silk Road and heading south to Ladakh and Kashmir by way of the difficult 5,575m Karakoram Pass. Today this route is decisively closed, as the Karakoram Pass lies in an area disputed by China and India, as well as close to the Siachen Glacier, the world’s highest battlefield where India confronts Pakistan. Highway 219 follows part of the old trade route as it heads south from Karghilik, through Akmeqit, Mazar and Shahidullah, across the disputed Aksai Chin to Ali (Senge Khabab) in western Tibet. Although still officially closed to visitors, Chinese security has become increasingly relaxed in recent years, and this is becoming a popular (albeit difficult) way for travellers to reach Tibet from Xinjiang. Karghilik is a quiet little place with an attractive 15th century Friday Mosque, a bustling bazaar, and several reasonable hotels, making it a possible stopover on the journey between Khotan and Kashgar.